Maybe it was the fitness club looming like a megachurch over the
strip mall parking lot that passed judgment on my plan to worship
at the calorie-rich altar of Five Guys Burger and Fries. Or perhaps
my gnawing hunger after a long morning hike and the downright epic
drive from my city digs to Chesterfield set me up for inevitable
disappointment.
What I do know is this: Everyone — besides me — seemed to love
Five Guys. The lines were long. The vibe was feeding frenzy. The
walls were lined with positive if not ardent reviews. The open
kitchen was sparkling clean, the promised seven-minute wait for the
food was spot-on, and the brown paper bag stuffed with burgers and
fries was full of steaming promise. What’s not to like?
Sadly, in my case that would be the bacon burger ($5.39). The
beef at Five Guys is never frozen, the sesame seed buns are soft
and fresh, and my two hand-formed patties were juicy enough. The
small serving of fresh cut fries ($2.59) was so generous it spilled
from the confines of its carton.
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My disappointment can be summed up in one word: flavor. In the
case of the meat’s utter blandness, the primary flavor was a lack
thereof. As for the toppers of bacon and lettuce, their taste
indicated they were past their prime. The fries, nicely
tender-crisp, were also under-seasoned and beyond a salt shaker’s
help.
Still, the obvious delight of my fellow diners suggests that my
Five Guys experience is an anomaly, not the norm. Why this highly
regarded chain garnered a “meh” instead of a “wow!” from this eater
for hire may simply be a case of right place, wrong time. Some
things we never know.
15873 Fountain Drive, Chesterfield, plus other area locations
• 636-527-9844 • fiveguys.com • Hours: 11 a.m.-10 p.m. daily •
Smoking: No